Choosing a watch can be frustrating because of the names of watch parts or functions that you don't know what they mean. The following list of the most common watch terms will allow you to choose a watch exactly according to your needs.
- they do not need a battery to operate. This is a mechanical watch complete with a self-winding mechanism, which ensures the winding of the pen in the watch without the need for manual winding. These watches are also called automatic or self-winding watches.
The movement of the hand turns the rotor on the movement (a rocker usually placed centrally on the movement of the watch), which slowly stretches the pen (the moment of force increases) with the help of gears transmitted to the movement.
You can find automatic watches across all brands.
The term chronograph refers to a watch most often equipped with 3 sub-dials, which have the function of counting seconds, minutes and hours. Simply put, the term chronograph refers to the function of a stopwatch. The watch is most often controlled by two buttons above and below the crown. The chronograph function works independently of the primary time system – the clock, and does not affect its operation in any way. With electronic chronographs, the measured time is displayed digitally. Instead of a chronograph, the more correct designation chronoscope is sometimes used. Chronograph watches can be found across all brands. The best-selling of them are, for example, Watches:
Chronometer is a designation for an extra accurate watch. It means that the watch meets the highest standard of accuracy and must be able to display the seconds continuously. It must meet this accuracy under strict conditions at 3 different temperatures, in 5 different positions, and also underwater. Certification is granted by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (COSC). The certificate is granted for each individual specific product, so one model series is not certified en masse.
COSC-certified watches are, for example:
- is the mean time that refers to the prime meridian that passes through the Greenwich observatory in London. It is the default value by which the time in other time zones is set, which is represented by adding or subtracting an hour. In the Czech Republic, one hour is added, i.e. GMT+1. GMT on the watch If the watch has a GMT function, it means that it is able to display the time in another, second, different time zone than the primary time indicator on the watch, in the form of various complications in which manufacturers are very inventive.
Although our ancestors were already aware of the importance of time zones, where they were used primarily in maritime navigation, their practical use was very limited due to the imprecise operation of watches. This situation only changed with the advent of the chronometer, which made it possible to precisely navigate ships thanks to 15° time zones. The first watch that displayed two time zones at the same time was presented by Rolex in 1954. Like many other watch innovations, the GMT complication is the fault of pilots, this time civilians, who flew in the service of PanAm, who bought just such a watch from the Swiss manufacturer Rolex ordered.
An example of a watch with a GMT function can be, for example:
Titanium is not the only material that can be found, for example, in Boccia watches. In many models, it is supplemented with ceramics, from which, for example, pull parts or cases are made. Like titanium, ceramic is a chemically stable material that does not cause allergic reactions and is therefore very suitable for people with sensitive skin. It is produced from zirconium oxide or titanium carbide at very high pressure and temperature of up to 1,450ºC. It is a very solid material, the color of which can be easily changed by adding various color additives. Surface treatment is usually done by polishing or matting. Ceramic is up to eight times harder than steel and almost impossible to scratch under normal conditions. But this resistance and extreme hardness is redeemed by fragility. In case of an extreme impact, the ceramic part may break. In addition to being anti-allergenic and scratch-resistant, a great advantage of ceramics is also its lightness. You will hardly feel the titanium parts of the watch supplemented with ceramic parts on your hand and will not restrict you in anything.
A watch with a compass will be used by every hunter, hiker, or anyone who just likes to wander through nature. The compass is still a basic orienteering aid. The compass, as we know it, can be in two versions - a digital and a classic compass with an arrow. You can see comfortably even at night on the digital one. The classic compass, on the other hand, does not depend on electricity.
A watch complication is the name given to the functions that a watch has beyond measuring time. Sometimes even an ordinary second hand is considered a complication. Most often, however, a watch complication is considered a date indicator, chronograph, perpetual calendar, GMT, power reserve, tourbillon, etc.
How much do you pay extra for a watch complication? It's simple, the more horological complications a watch has, the higher the price. It is also necessary to take into account the complexity of such a complication, almost every watch today has a date stamp, but for more complex mechanisms you will have to dig deeper into your pocket.
The crown is used to set the time and date. In the case of self-winding watches, it is also used to wind the movement and sometimes to start the stopwatch. We can explain the function of the crown using the example of a Wenger watch. Models that have a date display always have 3 positions for the crown (when the crown is pulled away from the watch).
If the watch does not have a date stamp, the crown only has position 2. Some watches have a screw-in crown. The controls are the same, but the crown needs to be unscrewed before manipulation and then, after setting the watch, to maintain water resistance, screw the crown back on.
Luminescence - sometimes also called Fluorescence is a phenomenon that ensures the visibility of hands and indices on a watch even in the dark.
Passive luminescence, which is used by most watch manufacturers, absorbs part of the light radiation, which it then releases. Watches with this technology can "light up" from 2 to about 6 hours (depending on the quality and the technology used).
There are also manufacturers on the market that use more sophisticated technologies (for example Trigalight from Traser). They work on the basis of gas capsules and their luminosity does not depend on being "charged" with light. They can use the luminescent effect for up to 20 years. See Trialight dictionary password below for more.
Wenger is now using the Super LumiNova technology on its watches, which guarantees the durability of the luminescence for several hours (all night).
The bezel is the circumferential ring on the case around the watch glass. Sometimes it is rotatable, other times it is fixed and makes the passage of the case to the glass.
In the case of a rotating bezel, time is measured on this bezel - if you turn the bezel so that the minute hand on the bezel points to zero, you measure time from that moment.
The bezel is usually part of diving watches. The purpose is to measure the length of the dive. Diving watches often have a bezel that only rotates counterclockwise, so that accidental rotation shortens the dive. Or a better option is if the watch has a lock.
Using the bezel:
Mineral glass is glass of high optical quality with excellent scratch resistance. It is formed as a product of the smelting process. The composition of the glass melt is as follows:
The mineral glasses of Wenger watches are often equipped with a sapphire layer and their durability is thus even greater.
A complete overview of watch glasses and which ones to choose can be found in the guide: How to choose a watch glass.
PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) coating is a very durable treatment of the surface of the watch case. It is characterized by high hardness and abrasion resistance, resistance to high temperature, corrosion and acids. This is a layer that penetrates the original material. In a vacuum chamber, a new material is applied to the original material (most often steel) under high pressure, which perfectly bonds with the original surface.
Unlike paint, it cannot peel off (because it is not applied to, but directly in the underlying material). The PVD surface may not only be black, but also "gold" (titanium nitride is used), or it may have different colors.
In the case of quartz watches, their heart is an integrated circuit with a large number of electronic parts placed together on a board only a few mm2. The watch with a Quartz movement is powered by a miniature battery that lasts for several years. There is no need to wind them and they do not even have a so-called automatic winder.
The time is determined by a silica oscillator that converts the energy supplied by the battery into electrical oscillations. Quartz watches are extremely accurate. Their annual variation is only one minute per year, which is less than a second per day.
Swiss made is a world-famous label for Swiss watches. But in order for a watch to bear this sign of quality and tradition, it must meet several criteria:
The criteria are contained in Swiss law and their compliance is strictly controlled by the authorities. These rules give customers a guarantee that the watch is made of quality parts and assembled by real master watchmakers.
The Federation of Swiss Watchmakers has published plans to increase the requirements for the proportion of components made in Switzerland to 60%. This proposal (referred to as Swissness) has already passed the first vote and it is very likely that it will enter into force soon.
A tachymeter is most often placed on the bezel of a watch and is used to determine the speed of a moving object (most often a car). If you want to determine the speed of a moving vehicle, you start the stopwatch and stop the stopwatch at the exact moment when the object travels 1 km. Where the hand stopped, we simply subtract the speed of the object. For example, if a car travels 1 km in 20 seconds, the hand shows you on the dial of the tachymeter that the car is moving at a speed of 180 km/h.
Watches with a tachymeter can be found in the helveti.eu.
The telemeter is a similar function to the tachymeter. With the difference that the telemeter helps us measure the distance. On the watch, you can find the telemeter function as a linear scale on the bezel. Distance can be measured very easily. All you have to do is start measuring the time on the chronograph on some occasion (flash) and read off the scale when you stop (thunder). Distance measurement works based on the speed of sound.Examples of use:
Titanium is a very light but at the same time hard gray metal. It is abundantly represented in the earth's crust, but its acquisition is financially very demanding. During industrial processing, it is obtained in its pure form using the so-called Kroll's process from rutile or the already mentioned ilmenite. It is a good conductor of heat and electricity and is characterized by exceptional chemical stability. Titanium is indifferent to the action of water and atmospheric gases and resists the action of most common mineral acids and alkali hydroxide solutions.Indispensable material
Due to its chemical resistance and low density, it is used in the production of spacecraft, satellites and the most demanding parts of aircraft. It is also used wherever it is desirable that the metal does not cause allergic reactions (surgical instruments) or does not corrode (ships, submarines). Advantages of titanium for the watch industry:
The titanium or steel movement of the watch is, in addition to the leather and rubber strap, another option for wearing the watch attached to the hand. It always depends on the clothes and the occasion for which we take the watch. Based on this, we then choose a watch with a strap or a pull.
Some brands equip their watches with titanium bracelets, which are usually lighter and more comfortable to wear. Every watchmaker, or even a more skilled watch owner, can shorten the stroke (article How to shorten the metal bracelet of a watch).
If you are ordering a watch with a movement in the e-shop, you only need to indicate the size of your wrist in the order and we will tailor the bracelet for you free of charge. Here you will find instructions on how to choose your watch size.
Trigalight® technology from Mb-microtec uses a light source based on tritium gas. It is known in scientific circles under the English abbreviation GTLS, and its commercial use was preceded by decades of research.
A minute amount of tritium gas is hermetically sealed in a thin glass, covered inside with a phosphorescent material. The electrons coming from the tritium activate the matter to emit a steady, faint light.
Using a laser, each trigalight® light source is cut off and hermetically sealed. Gas will never escape from the ampoule secured in this way. The technologies make it possible to produce light sources with a diameter of 0.5 mm and a length of 1.2 mm.
Since tritium is a weak radioactive material, it is essential to understand the possible risks. The slow energy of tritium electrons cannot escape from the trigalight® glass ampoule. It would take very brute force to break it.
Assuming that all the ampoules used in 40 watches (1,000 millicuries) burst at once in an unventilated room and released tritium gas, the people in that room would be exposed to 50% of the annual dose of natural radiation to which every living thing on earth is exposed.
Tritium particles penetrate a maximum of 6 mm in air and only 0.006 mm in water. Another example can be that if someone "accidentally" eats it (for example from their watch), it completely dissolves in water and is then excreted in the urine without any consequences. These examples demonstrate the safety of this product. Read a detailed article about Trigalight security.
The safety of Tritium gas (Trigalight technology) was also dealt with by the online store 3h-tritium.cz, on whose website you can view the results of a test in which the samples were soaked in water for 14 days and the radioactivity of the water was subsequently measured. The results showed no leakage of Tritium from the tested samples. So let's forget about images of radioactivity, men in orange protective suits with a dosimeter in hand or Homer Simpson taking home a greenish souvenir from a nuclear power plant. Tritium is absolutely safe and is widely used in industries, medicine, military and other fields of human activity. If, despite the assurances mentioned above, you have doubts that the tritium gas in the Traser watch is safe, we will be happy to welcome you to our premises, where you can see the watch with your own eyes and see for yourself the perfect airtight closure of the ampoules.
Mb-microtec H3 lighting is commercially known as Trigalight®. This technology makes it possible to read the time from the watch in any visibility without using the battery. Depending on the type of phosphorescent material used, it can emit light in different color shades. The human eye perceives green as the brightest color, but light orange, blue, red, white, yellow or pink are also used in the manufacture of watches.
Tritium is not stable, but decomposes into harmless helium gas with a half-life of about 12.3 years. This means that after this time, half of any amount of tritium will have turned into helium. Based on this fact, Trigalight® technology is guaranteed to last for 10 years.
The emitted light can have a different color and intensity based on the luminescent layer used. Light green colors have the highest intensity (100%). The intensities of the other colors are derived from it:
Green: 100% Yellow: 80% White: 60% Ice Blue: 60% Orange: 40% Pink: 40% Purple: 30% Red: 20% Blue: 15%
Trigalight technology (also known as LLT) is used by Traser itself in its watches, but also by the Luminox brand, among others.
Waterproofing is a slightly introduced term, but in our country it is much more established than the more correct waterproofing. Water resistant correctly means water resistance, and watch manufacturers are not even allowed to state anything else.
The first waterproof (water-resistant) watch was produced in 1926 by the Swiss company Rolex. The watch was called Oyster and had a screw-down crown.
If you are more interested in the topic of water resistance of watches, you can read the article Water resistance of watches clearly.
The back cover of the watch is the lower part of the case that covers the movement of the watch. A screw back cap is more suitable for higher water resistance. It is often also equipped with a window for an automatic movement, and there are also watches that have a window for a quartz movement.
The watch with a skeletonized dial offers a view of the movement even through the front.
Sapphire is second only to diamond on the hardness scale. The sapphire crystal is really the best thing that can protect a watch dial. Such glass is really very difficult to scratch or destroy.Watch with a sapphire crystal can be found here.
The article How to choose a watch glass will help you find your way around watch glass materials.
Nothing was found