Watch Academy: How to shorten the metal bracelet of a watch

A metal bracelet, also referred to in watchmaking circles as a pull, is a very popular way to keep a watch on your wrist. I myself clearly prefer this method, although I am by no means ruling out other options. But the pulls require an initial adjustment of the length in order to fit correctly. It often happens that you need to change the length of the bracelet after all. You can do the rest of the work at home, and you will see that even the right tools are not difficult to acquire. So you can easily try shortening or lengthening the stroke yourself. Now you just need a few tips on how to do it.

Why choose a metal bracelet?

All possible types of straps, pulls and watches alternate on my hand (you can read a separate guide to finding the right watch case size in an older article). Today I'm going to focus on metal bracelets, which I like the most, mainly because it's a very practical thing - this solution has the longest life and is easy to maintain. For example, they can be simply washed with water - and they immediately look almost like new. In addition, it looks great on a lot of watches.

There is perhaps only one single complication, around which today's article revolves. You don't (mostly) just put on a metal bracelet and fasten it so that your watch fits perfectly. A relatively more complex correction is required for metal bracelets. It is mostly about removing or adding bracelet links, or moving the clasp.

Here at Helveti we adjust the length of the metal bracelet for free, even remotely when ordering a watch via the e-shop. Just fill in the circumference of your wrist in the order and we will adjust the bracelet to size before shipping and send the remaining articles in case of further changes.

But sometimes everyone who likes to wear a watch on the move wants to adjust the bracelet themselves. Well, if you don't have experience with it and you could use some advice and tips, then this article is just for you.

 

What to stick to in all circumstances

• The basic rule is to remove links symmetrically from both sides of the bracelet. I always recommend starting with the article from the bottom of the watch (i.e. on the side where the six o'clock position is on the dial). If an odd number of pieces are removed, the clasp usually fits better if more are removed from the bottom.
• The direction of extrusion of the cotter pin or connector that must be followed is usually indicated by arrows on the inside of the pull (an example can be found in the following photo).

• Materials: there are many types of metal strokes and different metals can be used. Steel is the most common, followed by titanium, but you can also see bracelets made of bronze, for example. The part stroke can even be ceramic. For softer or more fragile materials, pay attention to the greater risk of scratching or other damage and take a soft cloth to help, or work on the bracelet on the edge of the table with the case outside the work area.
• The way the pieces are connected is also important. This guide is not intended as a professional instruction, but rather a guide for, let's say, "do-it-yourselfers", and therefore in it we will make do with the simple tools that we offer in our e-shop (see the list below), or with what you usually have in your household after hands. With these tools, in most cases, even at home, the length of the bracelet can be adjusted to ensure maximum comfort while wearing the watch.
• Specialized tools:
• Stroke Shortener, Blue (equivalent to Stroke Shortener, Black)
• Vystěžejkavac Helveti.cz (or shorter Vystěžejkavac, silver).

If you are equipped, we can take a look at working with the most common types of article links.

1. The most common pull connection – classic cotter pin

The links of the bracelet are most often connected by a pin (axis), which must be pushed out or punched out when adjusting the length of the bracelet. This is exactly what it is easiest to use a stroke shortener for at home.

In most cases, the direction in which the cotter pin must be pushed out is indicated by an arrow from the bottom of the bracelet. If the direction is not marked, push the cotter pin against the side where the cotter pin is optically split (similar to the head of a screw).

It's a good idea to hold the pull while pushing the cotter pin from the top, as it tends to deflect upwards. This could cause the tool to warp or scratch the bracelet (or both).

The biggest problem that can occur is that when the shortening tool is extended to its maximum extent, the cotter pin continues to hold firmly inside the link. In such a case, you can use a weak needle to try to push the pin further, or you can try to pull it out - usually your hand is enough.

In the event that you have to use more force to pull out the axle, for example with pliers, pay close attention to the risk of bending or warping the axle. In this case, it will no longer be possible to use it again (and the whole action will be solved by a watchmaker who will exchange it for you). So it is necessary to proceed with utmost caution. However, in most cases it is enough to push the cotter pin out and then simply pull it out.

After removing the article, it is necessary to insert the cotter pin back. You can help yourself, for example, with a stick (a relatively soft material that does not scratch the stroke), or in the last stage of insertion again with a stroke shortener. This allows the pin to be pushed to the edge of the link, or a tiny bit beyond it (the shortening tool must also be carefully directed against the pin to avoid scratching the bracelet).

2. Another type of thrust connection: axle with roller

From the point of view of caution at work, the procedure is the same as in the first case.

These axes can usually be pushed out easily, but it is often necessary to push the axis out further, for example with a long pin, or pull it out with pliers.

The biggest challenge with this type of roller mount is not to lose the roller during removal. Without it, the axis will not hold in the piece.

There are several types of rollers, the most basic ones are either from the edge of the article or in the middle of the article. It is also worth mentioning an even more special solution, used for example in some Seiko divers. But from the point of view of disconnecting the parts, it is only a matter of which part the roller is waiting for you.

Pushing back is similar to the previous case. Again, it is possible to push the axis, or to help yourself with a stick / small hammer / shortening tool (very carefully).

At the final stage of the push, the stroke shortener is again most effective. If you are going to push the axis against the work surface, make sure that the watch case hangs freely and the thrust is therefore level with the work surface. Otherwise, the axis could be bent.

3. Sheet metal thrust with a large L-shaped cotter pin

You can unfasten the buckle by pulling out the axis.

This type of connection can be a little tricky at home. For this kind of connection of links, it is good to have special pliers, which, of course, the common mortal at home will not use for anything else.

Even so, you can try to push out the cotter pin with, for example, a smaller screwdriver (again in the direction of the arrow on the bottom of the pull). If you manage to push the pin, it's half won, because then it can usually be pulled out by hand at best, or with combos at worst.

Pushing back can then be tried, for example, against a table, or a small hammer can be used (preferably through a cloth again to avoid scratching the pull). Care must be taken not to twist the thread when pushing or tapping.

4. Screwed pull pieces

 

Some bracelets have parts screwed together, which is usually very easy to shorten. However, it is necessary to have a small screwdriver, and sometimes two. Sometimes it is necessary to hold the head of the screw from the other side than the one from which you are screwing.

It is also possible to encounter a situation where it is very difficult to hit both unscrewed parts back together (for example in some Fortis brand models). But screw-on parts are usually one of the easiest to adjust the length.

5. Sliding clasp on the knitted pull

Usually a very simple solution (most often with woven mesh bracelets) where you just unclip the clasp - always away from the watch, move the clasp and snap it back. The advantage of this method of setting is the ability to set the stroke length in real detail. The problem can sometimes be the re-snap of the buckle. In that case, it's a good idea to put a cloth over it and press it flat against the table.

May the work be successful!

So you see, it's not that hard.

If you attempt to shorten the bracelet yourself, you must always expect possible scratches or damage to the watch, the pull or tools, especially if you have no experience with shortening. I sincerely hope that this guide will help you avoid similar struggles. Of course, it also depends on your manual dexterity - for some it's a piece of cake the first time, while for others shortening the stroke at home will be a pain in the ass.

Could there be more pitfalls?

Sometimes even the most skill is useless because the pull won't yield, or shortening takes a long time, and you lose a little nerve with delicate parts. This is especially so if it is an atypical solution. For example, the Junghans Meister Mega 058/4803.44 has a rather specific way of dealing with connecting the cells.

So it may happen that you simply can't do it at home without special tools or with specific pieces. To be honest - it happens sometimes even to us in Helveti, where we have some equipment and experience. Then all you have to do is look for a professional watchmaker who has even more experience and even better equipment.